Downunder Travels

Discover The Outback’s Hidden Treasures: Mungo National Park On Our Way To Broken Hill

Embarking on a road trip through the heart of Australia is like embarking on a journey through time itself. The dusty outback roads, vast open skies, and rugged landscapes reveal the continent’s rich history and natural wonders. Nestled within this grand tapestry of the Australian outback is a mesmerizing 7-day road trip that takes us from the historic town of Swan Hill, Victoria, via Mungo National Park to the iconic desert outpost of Broken Hill, New South Wales.

Along this unforgettable route, you’ll explore the enigmatic Mungo National Park, delve into the charm of Menindee, and traverse landscapes that seem straight out of a surreal dream. Get ready to discover the hidden gems and unforgettable experiences waiting for you as we guide you through this awe-inspiring journey across the rugged heart of the land Down Under.

Visitors Centre Balranald
Visitors Centre Balranald

Swan Hill To First Stop Balranald

Vicki and Keryn Outside Visitor Centre

As you set off from Swan Hill on the first leg of your road trip, the road stretches before you, flanked by paddocks of cropping, with areas of grape vines and fruit trees. After crossing the Murray River at Swan Hill it is an hours drive to the charming town of Balranald. A delightful oasis on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River.

Our first stop was the Balranald Discovery Centre, a treasure trove of history.

It houses a remarkable collection of exhibits that shed light on the town’s past, from its early days to its modern development. Among the notable features of this center are the museum, the old jail, and other historic buildings that preserve the essence of Balranald’s heritage.

The Balranald Museum:

Along a wall at Balranald Museum

The museum at the Balranald Discovery Centre is a captivating journey through time. It offers a comprehensive view of the town’s history, taking you back to its Indigenous roots, through European exploration and settlement, and into the modern era.

Here, you can explore an array of artifacts, photographs, and documents that tell the story of Balranald and its people.

From the tools and possessions of the indigenous communities who lived off the land for millennia to the relics of European pioneers who ventured into the unknown. The museum is a living history book that captures the essence of Balranald’s History.

When we visited it was by gold coin donation, paid at the visitors centre, to go into the Museum.

The Old Jail In Balranald:

The Old Balranald Jail

One of the most intriguing aspects of the Discovery Centre is the meticulously preserved old jail, a stark reminder of the region’s convict past. Visitors can step into the cells that once held prisoners and gain insight into the harsh conditions and justice system of the 19th century.

The old jail provides a visceral experience, allowing you to connect with the challenges faced by both the inmates and their keepers during this bygone era.

Historic Buildings In Balranald:

In addition to the museum and the old jail, the Balranald Discovery Centre includes several other historic buildings that have been moved to the site and painstakingly restored. These structures offer a glimpse into Balranald’s architectural heritage and the way people lived in the past. From period-correct homes to buildings that once served as local businesses, these structures breathe life into the town’s history.

Balranald Discovery Centre

At the Discovery Centre you can learn more about the places to visit while staying in Balranald. Some of the areas close by are Mungo National Park and Yanga Station. You can buy souvenirs and there is a coffee shop for food and drinks. There is a lot of parking near the Discovery centre and they cater for cars and caravans.

The coffee shop was closed the day that we were there so we went down the street and had lunch at the bakery. They had hot pies and made fresh sandwiches which was really nice.

The Southern Bell Frog (Litoria raniformis), A Captivating Amphibian Species.

This frog that is listed endangered has made its home in the charming town of Balranald. Known for its striking green coloration and distinctive bell-like croak, this frog is a delightful resident of the wetlands and waterways that grace the Balranald region.

With its habitat intertwined with the Murray-Darling Basin, the Southern Bell Frog is an essential part of the local ecosystem, adding a touch of nature’s beauty to this Australian community. Balranald’s wetlands provide a sanctuary for these charming frogs and offer residents and visitors a unique opportunity to witness their enchanting presence in this part of New South Wales.

Continuing Onto Mungo Lodge

After lunch we continued onto Mungo Lodge where we stayed for the next two nights. There was sealed road as we headed out towards Ivanhoe and some as we turned off towards Mungo National Park. But then we came across unsealed road that was a bit corrugated. This slowed our trip down considerably, but it was a very quiet road and for the whole distance we only saw about three cars.

We traveled 148kms, which took us about two and 1/2 hours but we did not travel fast. There were different things to see along the way as the country side changed. This road is closed following rain, so check conditions before you start on the drive. During summer months it gets very hot out here so make sure you carry plenty of water.

Driving Along The Road Into Mungo National Park

When turning to the Mungo National Park road, keep a look out along this road as there is plenty of wildlife to see. We saw emus with their 10 baby emus running away from the road. There were also Red and Grey kangaroos jumping along the road. Mungo National Park is part of the Willandra Lakes World Heritage Area.

We were lucky to see a bearded dragon lizard sitting on a wooden fence as we crossed over a grid. It was amazing that he just sat there not flinching as we stopped and took photos of it. Almost like he thought that we were unable to see him as he blended with the post.

Arriving At Mungo Lodge

We continued to Mungo Lodge where we stayed for the next two nights. Our accommodation was a two bedroom self-contained cabin. The cabin was spacious and had a deck out the back where we sat to watch the birds and other wildlife. They also had glamping tents and camping grounds, you should book before going to make sure they have vacancies.

Mungo Lodge Sunset Tour

The first night we had booked a Sunset Tour from Mungo Lodge out to the Walls of China. Eleven of us met at Mungo Lodge reception to embark on an unforgettable adventure. The guide took us to the majestic Walls of China, which during the sunset created a picturesque canvas for photography.

We uncovered the rich historical tapestry of Mungo as we delved into the ancient abode of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady. Navigating the numerous lookout points at Mungo to catch the perfect sunset can be daunting, but with our tour, you’ll witness the absolute “best” of them all.

Sunset at Walls of China Mungo
Sunset at Walls of China Mungo

We ascended the Walls of China with an experienced guide, giving us access to exclusive viewpoints and an intimate journey into a restricted area of the park. This area was an ideal spot for capturing the perfect sunset, offering a breathtaking 360° panorama.

This adventure will etch itself into your memory in the globally acclaimed World Heritage Mungo National Park—a treasure trove of ancient cultural significance. We found this tour to be very interesting, and went through how the Lunettes were formed and about Mungo Man and Mungo Lady. It is worth taking the tours to learn the history of Mungo.

Driving back after sunset was a slow drive due to the kangaroos crossing the road. We had a couple of close calls where the driver had to slow down to avoid hitting wildlife.

Day 2 Exploring Mungo National Park

After a continental breakfast we walked around the grounds and saw the resident emus, goats and guinea fowls. As we walked around we passed the glamping tents and camping areas. Everything is spread out so that you are not to close to your neighbours.

Looking out from Mungo lookout
Looking out from Mungo lookout

Today we had booked a tour, that was part of a tour that comes out from Mildura. As it happened we were the only ones on the tour and so the guide took us to a couple of different look outs as we had seen some things already the night before.

First stop was Mungo Lookout, where we looked across the dry Mungo Lake Bed.

He was really knowledgeable and told us a lot about the past history of Mungo. We went back onto the Walls of China and saw some artifacts that had been collected and placed in a spot for the tourists.

History Of Mungo National Park

Lake Mungo, located in Mungo National Park within New South Wales, Australia, boasts a history that stretches back thousands of years. It is renowned for its extraordinary archaeological and cultural significance. The region was once part of a vast system of interconnected lakes, and its shores were home to Indigenous peoples for over 40,000 years.

Mungo Man And Mungo Lady

The ancient remnants of human habitation, including fireplaces, tools, and skeletal remains, have provided crucial insights into the deep history of Australia’s Aboriginal culture. In particular, the discovery of the remains of “Mungo Man” and “Mungo Lady” in the 1960s and 1970s challenged existing theories about the continent’s settlement, shedding light on the rich and complex history of its first inhabitants.

Over time, changing climatic conditions led to the desiccation of the lake, exposing its remarkable lunette formations, which bear witness to the passage of time through their layered sediments and striking beauty. Today, Lake Mungo stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a testament to the enduring connection of Indigenous peoples to the land and a treasure trove of archaeological and geological wonders that continue to deepen our understanding of Australia’s ancient past.

Mungo Visitor Centre

On our tour we were taken to the Visitor centre where there are displays as well as videos about the area and stories about foot prints that were found. Out the back they have recreated these foot steps that tell a story about the people that once lived there. The visitor centre is open for everyone to go and learn about the different occupants on the land.

Mungo Wool Shed

The Mungo Wool shed is also at this location and you get to walk through and the guide tells you information about the wool shed and when it was built in the 1870’s. You are able to walk through the Mungo Wool Shed as a visitor even if you don’t take a tour.

It was built by the Chinese as they came up after the end of the gold rush. These men cut down the cypress pines (as termite resistant and hardy wood) and then prepared them for building the Mungo Wool shed and sheep yards. They removed most of the trees from the western side of Lake Mungo.

The Wool Shed was built by the drop-log method. This style of building was used as it was cheaper and they didn’t have to use many nails. It took three years to build, and while they were building the shed they looked over and they saw something that reminded them of home. The name “Walls of China”were given by Chinese workers during the construction of the Mungo Wool Shed.

Naming Of The Lunette Formations As Great Wall Of China

The unique appearance of the eroded lunette formations in Lake Mungo National Park reminded these workers of the Great Wall of China, and they likely applied the name to the landscape, which has since become a popular term for describing the area’s geological features. This historical perspective adds another layer of significance to the name “Walls of China” and highlights the cultural and historical connections between different regions and their iconic landmarks.

Finishing up at the Visitor centre and Mungo Wool shed we were taken back to Mungo Lodge for lunch. After lunch we headed off in the Ute for the 70km Self Drive tour.

Mungo Self Guided Drive Tour

The track to follow starts at the Visitors centre. It is a one way track and you travel around anti clock wise. If you haven’t already visited the Walls of China (Mungo Lunette) you can stop here and walk out to the boardwalk and viewing platform. You are not allowed to walk out onto the Lunette unless you are with a guide.

At Red Top Lookout
At Red Top Lookout

Red Top Lookout

The next stop is Red Top lookout, it is worth stopping here and walking out to the boardwalk. This is also a popular spot for watching the sunset if you want to drive out on your own and have a look. Up to this point you can still go back to the visitor centre, but if you continue on it will be one way and you will have to continue anti-clockwise.

Mallee Picnic Stop

Continuing a long the narrow and rough track there picnic areas where you could stop for a break. But we continued on until we reached Mallee stop picnic area. We went for the walk around looking at the trees, birds and even a small lizard that we did not know what it was.

On our trip around we saw stumpy tailed lizards, goannas, and kangaroos jumping through the bush.

Round Tank Picnic Area

Next stop Round Tank Picnic Area, where you walk a short distance to the sand dunes. They are quite high and a hard walk up as the sand is very fine. The sand is white and fine but really nice to look at and climb up. Leo and Keryn climbed up to the top but I stayed down at the bottom.

Zanci Station

Continuing along the track, we saw more wild life, mainly stumpy tailed lizards, kangaroos and emus. As we weaved our way through the scrub we arrived at the site of the Zanci Homestead site.

The homestead is no longer there but we stopped and had a walk around the site. There was an underground cellar where they kept their food to keep things cool. There is a bit of a walk that takes you past the horse stables and shearing shed which are both still standing. As we were walking there was a kangaroo and her joey close to the track hiding in the trees.

If you want to see this site but don’t want to drive the 70km loop, there is a walking track that leaves from the visitors’ centre.

Dinner At Mungo Lodge

After our self drive tour we headed back to Mungo Lodge. We had ordered tea before leaving on our drive and so headed across to the dining room. On arrival we were brought damper to start with and then our main meals. There is a bar there as well to by drinks from.

This dining room was also where we had our continental breakfast. Our cabin was only situated about 150m away, so just a short walk.

Day 3 Leaving Mungo National Park For Bindara

Packed up we headed off towards Pooncarie where we planned to have lunch. Pooncarie is where the stations at Mungo took their wool to be put on the paddle steamers to take it down the Darling River to the Murray River.

Most of the road was unsealed until we hit the Wentworth-Pooncarie road. Then it wasn’t to far before we arrived at Pooncarie. This is a small town, but there were a few travelers with caravans around the site of the wharf. There was a nice little cafe to have lunch where you can sit down near the Darling River. It was a very cold and windy day, so we ate lunch and took a look at the river before continuing on.

History Of Pooncarie

Pooncarie, located in New South Wales, Australia, is a town with a rich history dating back to the mid-19th century. Established in the 1860s, it originally served as a supply point for paddle steamers traveling along the Darling River during the era of river transport. The town played a significant role in the wool and pastoral industries, facilitating the transportation of goods and produce to and from the remote outback.

Over the years, Pooncarie’s history has been intertwined with the challenges and triumphs of life in the Australian outback, with its residents adapting to the harsh, arid conditions of the region. Today, Pooncarie stands as a testament to the resilience and spirit of its community, offering visitors a glimpse into a bygone era and the unique heritage of the Australian outback.

Continuing On To Bindara Station

Road to Bindara

As we leave Pooncarie we get back on the road to Bindara. Back on dirt road again we continue our drive made more interesting as Barb our host had sent us a list of interesting things to look out for along the road. This helped to pass the time and also the landmarks gave us some history of the area. For the whole distance we only saw one other car and caravan, it is a very remote area and we passed over grids and through dry creek beds. It is only passable during dry weather.

Arriving at Bindara homestead we are met by Barb and she shows us to our accommodation. We are the only ones staying so it is very quiet. Our accommadtion overlooked the Darling River. It is such a lovely view and peaceful, a nice place to unwind.

Barb cooked us tea on an open fire. It was a lovely meal and afterwards we sat for awhile around the camp fire to stay warm and relax.

Day 4- Exploring Bindara Station

Today we met up with Barb for a two hour tour of the farm. We walked along the Darling River learning about the history of the area. The pioneers and early settlers had it tough back then. The area had a lot of sheep and the wool was picked up by paddle steamers as they stopped along the Darling River.

As we walked along we saw a lot of goats, as well as a euro. Even though we were there in late October we still saw a lot of wild flowers scattered through the bush. When we got to half way, Barb had morning tea set up for us, it was nice to have a rest with with a cup of coffee sitting, looking over the river under the gum trees.

Then for the walk back to where we were staying, which was a bit quicker. It had warmed up and we were ready for lunch. After lunch we relaxed on the verandah of the cabin over looking the Darling River and catch up on a bit of reading.

Later in the afternoon went for another walk around the Homestead and to the station Cemetery with Barb. It was good to go on a tour with Barb as you learn so much about the history of the area and some sad stories. It is a nice place to relax and to get away from modern technology. Barb was a great host and we all thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Bindara Station, and would recommend it to anyone wanting to experience a farm stay and relaxing beside the Darling River.

Day 5 Bindara To Broken Hill Via Menindee

Packed up everything as we once again set off for our final destination. Hitting the road at 9:30 we continued along an unsealed road. Along the way stopping to open a couple of gates and crossing some grids. It was a really dusty road.

Red Kangaroo and Grey Kangaroo

As we were driving along we saw a lot of different wild life. We saw red kangaroos, grey kangaroos, goats, emus, plenty of bird life and even a wedged tailed eagle beside the road. We continued along the Old Pooncarie Road around Packers Lake and Crossed over Packers Crossing.

As we continued along the rough road we passed by Tandou Station and Lake Tandou where there were some pelicans swimming. Our first stop was Kinchega Woolshed, which you turn off too. This is a dry weather only road.

Kinchega National Park

Nestled within the rugged embrace of Kinchega National Park, the Kinchega Woolshed stands as a living testament to the region’s pastoral history. This rustic, historic building, with its weathered timber beams and rusty corrugated iron, once echoed with the rhythmic hum of shearing blades and the banter of shearers. It’s a poignant reminder of the area’s bygone era when wool was king in the Australian outback.

In the shed you get a feel for how big it is and the number of shearers that would have been shearing at any given time. There is also displays of the different equipment that they would of used in those times to shear, grade and make the wool packs. The bales of wool would of then been loaded onto paddle steamers to be transported down the Darling Road and then the Murray River.

Kinchega Woolshed Windmill

Just a stone’s throw away from the woolshed, you’ll find the mesmerizing Menindee Lakes. These interconnected, shimmering water bodies, when full, transform the surrounding desert into a lush oasis, attracting an astonishing array of bird life.

The lakes provide a striking contrast to the arid beauty of the outback, offering opportunities for leisurely picnics, bird watching, and serene sunsets that paint the sky with hues of pink and orange.

The delicate dance between the historic woolshed and the serene lakeside setting encapsulates the essence of Kinchega National Park—a harmonious blend of history, nature, and timelessness.

At Kinchega Woolshed there are shearers quarters which you are able to stay in to experience what it might of been like back when it was fully operational. There are also toilets there for you to use.

River Drive Into Menindee

Darling River Weir 32

We drove a short distance back along the road we had come in on and turned to take the River Drive. This road is very narrow and windy, so we took it very slowly. Driving along this road you pass by the Kinchega Homestead site, the remains of PS Providenca that was destroyed by fire after an explosion and most of the men on board were killed.

There are spots along this drive where people are able to camp. We continued on and stopped to have a look at Weir 32 where the water is regulated as to the amount of water flowing down the Darling River.

Arriving Menindee Township

Continuing on along the corrugated road we made it to Menindee for lunch. Following a quick drive around town we stopped for lunch near the visitors centre. It is well worth going to the visitor centre, as there is a lot of different things available to buy. Also the lady there was very knowledgeable about the area and gives you information how to get around to the different Lakes.

Menindee Lakes

After lunch we headed out to the Main weir to have a look and pass the different Menindee Lakes. There were a lot of caravans and camper vans camping beside the lakes we passed. As we drove closer to the Weir we passed the site where Burke and Wills camped. Driving back we turned off and drove between Lake Pamamaroo and Menindee Lake, passing Copi Hollow where there was a nice Caravan Park.

Turning back onto the road to Broken Hill we stopped a short distance to have a look at Menindee Lake. Then continued onto Broken Hill on sealed roads, where we were staying for the next three nights.

Day 6 Exploring Silverton

Exploring Silverton is like taking a step back in time, where the spirit of the Australian outback’s wild and rugged past still thrives. This charming outback town, situated just a stone’s throw from Broken Hill in New South Wales, is a place where history mingles with a unique blend of artistry and adventure. As we wandered through the dusty streets, and we encountered quaint, weathered buildings that tell the tales of pioneers and miners who once sought their fortunes in this arid land.

Art Galleries At Silverton

Silverton’s artistic soul is evident in its vibrant galleries and quirky sculptures that seem to emerge from the desert itself. A couple of art galleries of note were those of John Dynon and Justin Cowz. I really enjoyed looking at the artwork in their Galleries and they were friendly.

Mad Max 2 Museum

The Mad Max 2 Museum pays homage to the iconic film series, as the second movie was filmed in the surrounding stark landscapes. This museum was filled with a lot of information and equipment used in making the film. If you are a Mad Max fan you will need to allow some time for this museum to get through everything.

Silverton Hotel

The town’s famous Silverton Hotel, with its charismatic outback character, offers a hearty meal and a chance to meet fellow travelers sharing tales of their outback escapades. We stopped and had a cool drink at the Silverton Hotel, there is plenty of space inside and a large out door area. There was plenty of memorabilia around the walls and hanging from the roof, demonstrating typical Aussie Humour.

Old Goal Museum Silverton

In the main street of Silverton is the old Gaol Museum, which has a charge to go into it, but it is well worth it. The entire history of the town including how Silverton came to be there and why this town died when Broken Hill was discovered is portrayed. You can find a lot of information about the times back then and how people survived and the hardships they endured.

The real allure of Silverton lies in its vast, open horizons. Nearby Mundi Mundi Plains, where the earth seems to stretch endlessly into the distance, offers an awe-inspiring view and a sense of boundless freedom.

Exploring Silverton is an adventure in itself, a journey that celebrates the past, the creative spirit, and the unyielding beauty of the Australian outback. It’s a place where time stands still, and the call of the desert beckons you to uncover its unique charm.

Day 7 Exploring Broken Hill

Our day in Broken Hill was a thrilling expedition that seamlessly blended history, art, and the marvels of nature. We kicked off our adventure at The Living Desert, where ancient red rocks and striking desert flora welcomed us. The highlight was undoubtedly the iconic Sculpture Symposium, a collection of sandstone sculptures that seemed to emerge from the earth, each with its own unique story and personality. As we explored the pathways, the desert’s vibrant colors and the sculptures’ artistry took our breath away.

Pro Hart Art Gallery

Next, we ventured to the Pro Hart Gallery, a celebration of the renowned outback artist’s work. Pro Hart’s captivating paintings and eccentric collection of vintage cars were a testament to the outback’s indomitable spirit and the artist’s boundless creativity. We also watched a video about Pro Hart his life and his art.

Whites Mine And Mineral Art

Mineral Art of the Palace Hotel by Mr White

Our journey then took us deep into the earth at Whites Mine, where we went into the dimly lit room similar to being down a mine and experienced the harsh realities of a miner’s life. Where historical artifacts and stories of hardworking miners painted a vivid picture of Broken Hill’s mining heritage. Our guide had worked as a miner in Broken Hill and the information he was able to tell us was interesting and informative.

The Mineral art which had been completed by Mr White was amazing. How he had created images that were about the mining and the old buildings around Broken Hill. There was also a large collection of dolls and bears which was interesting.

Lunch at the Visitor Centre offered a chance to refuel and delve deeper into the town’s history through engaging exhibits and informative displays. The warmth of the locals and the authentic outback cuisine left us feeling reinvigorated.

Solar Farm Broken Hill

Solar Panels 5 km from Broken Hill

The Solar Farm showcased a modern marvel in the heart of the outback. Acres of solar panels stood in stark contrast to the arid landscape, underlining the region’s commitment to sustainable energy and environmental preservation.

Palace Hotel Broken Hill

Leo and Vicki Palace Hotel
Leo and Vicki Palace Hotel

Our day in Broken Hill culminated at the iconic Palace Hotel, where we were treated to a taste of outback hospitality. The pub’s eccentric interior, adorned with murals that can be seen in the film “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert,” added a touch of whimsical to the evening.

The local brews and a hearty meal were the perfect ending to a day filled with exploration, art, history, and the timeless charm of this unique outback town. Broken Hill had shared its heart and soul with us, leaving an indelible mark on our journey through the Australian outback.

Broken Hill Is Heritage Listed

In 2015, Broken Hill made history as it was officially designated Australia’s inaugural Heritage City, marking a significant milestone in recognizing the town’s rich cultural and historical significance.

This prestigious title celebrated Broken Hill’s unique role in shaping Australia’s past and highlighted its enduring importance in the nation’s heritage. The honor emphasized the town’s pivotal contributions to the country’s economic development and its remarkable artistic and natural landscapes, making it a beacon for history, art, and the Australian outback’s timeless allure.

Day 8 Heading Back To Swan Hill

The journey back from Broken Hill to Swan Hill was a scenic odyssey through the heart of the Australian outback, where the rugged landscapes gave way to the confluence of two iconic rivers. Our first stop was Wentworth, a charming town where the mighty Darling River meets the grand Murray River.

Where the Darling River meets the Murray River
Where the Darling River meets the Murray River

After a leisurely drive through the open plains, we arrived in Wentworth and enjoyed a delightful lunch at the bakery. Local cuisine offered a delicious taste of outback flavors, and the warm hospitality of the townsfolk made us feel right at home.

Where The Darling River Joins The Murray River

The highlight of the day was our visit to the exact spot where the Darling River flows into the majestic Murray River. Meeting of these two iconic waterways was a sight to behold. When the Darling’s tranquil blue waters and the Murray’s mighty flow converged, creating a breathtaking tableau of nature’s power and grace. We stood there, gazing at this natural wonder, humbled by the sheer magnitude of the moment.

Gum Trees on the Darling River

From this confluence, we made our way down the winding roads, following the meandering course of the Murray River. The landscapes shifted from arid plains to lush riverbanks, with swaying gum trees and bird life aplenty. It was a serene and captivating drive that connected us with the beauty and vitality of these life-giving rivers.

As the day drew to a close, we arrived in Swan Hill, our journey’s final destination. The town’s welcoming atmosphere and the gentle flow of the Murray River provided a soothing backdrop to the end of our outback adventure. The journey from Broken Hill to Swan Hill had been a testament to the diversity and wonder of the Australian landscape. Where the meeting of rivers marked a fitting end to our exploration of this unique region.

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